Tip number two of this tip: ( beep, ), (, beep, ), Hey it's Annika here with Sniffdog, Welcome to part two of our `` How to Prevent Resource Guarding'' videos. You are going to learn what you need to do to make sure that your puppy or your teenage dog does not develop resource guarding tendencies against you At Sniffdog. We'Re here to teach you how to speak. Dog If you can have a better understanding of your dog, you can have a relationship built off trust and fun. We wan na come on this wonderful journey of pet ownership with you to help empower the love and connection between you and your pup. Before we get started with today's video, I wan na give a sout out to Rachel Chorlton.
How do you stop food aggression in dogs?
Thank you so much for continuing to support me and our journey in Sniffdog. We are so happy to have your comments. If you want to be featured on our YouTube videos, please make sure that you give us a like leave some comments about what you wan na, learn more about or share our videos with your friends As always stay tuned till the end. We'Ve got bloopers And don't forget to download the training tip sheet I made for you All right. Today'S training tips are tip number three and number four in reference to last week's video on resource guarding Okay, you learned this in the last video, but in case you haven't watched it yet go watch video one We talk about all the body language to look for when you are trying to navigate.
Can food aggression in dogs be cured?
If your dog is resource guarding or not, We also cover how to make sure your puppy or your adolescent dog learns to love you approaching them when they are eating their meal. Now this is really important.good guarding or resource guarding is a very common issue. With most dogs Often times it's just a one month, phase that they go through if they do struggle with resource guarding But there are things that you can do wrong that will in fact make resource guarding much much worse Before we get started. I just wan na start by reminding you if your dog is exhibiting more severe resource, guarding or chronic resource, guarding issues like snapping, snarling, growling or actually making contact and biting you or a loved one. You need to hire a local force-free dog trainer.
How do you stop dog aggression?
That is a professional that can come help you one-on-one Replacing this video for any in-person training is not recommended when you're dealing with actual aggression, issues Now milder resource guarding I'm here to help with or preventative resource guarding, I'm absolutely all about. So without further ado. Let'S get started with what you need for today's video You are going to need a bully. Stick: a frozen Kong, your dog's favorite toy sort of any high value item that your dog would be more likely to want to keep than give away.
The other thing you're going to need is some high value, treats to reward them for letting you approach them All right. Let'S get to tip number three of our four-part tip series on resource guarding Tip number three is to play the approach, treat and retreat game with. Other high value items such as a Kong, So the moral of the story is, we are trying to create a positive association with you approaching your dog when they have something they'd rather not give away.
Today I am going to give Cedar a peanut butter filled Kong and, while he's eating it, I'm going to teach him ``. When I approach you, I don't take it away. I in fact add something to the table. I give you something better than that peanut butter, Kong, .'', And that way when he sees me approaching him when he's got something that he doesn't want to give up in the future. He has this conditioned idea that it's not a bad thing when I come up to him, if he has something he doesn't want to lose. Now this takes lots and lots of repetition.
This is not a one-time and then you're done kind of situation. You need to be practicing this for a few weeks, if not a month or so before. Your dog starts to really understand No matter what I am chewing on. When she approaches me, I don't have to give it away, always in fact I get something better If they come towards me. While I have my Kong So as you'll see me do here with Cedar, I'm going to give them the good thing in a nice open space, So he's not under a table hiding it in the first place, I'm gon na approach him from 10 feet away.
I'M gon na walk right up to him when he's chewing his prized possession, I'm just gon na toss a high-value treat towards him retreat about 10 feet. Again, wait a few seconds and then repeat: Now you can do this, the entire time your dog is chewing a Kong or a Bully, Stick et cetera, No such thing as doing it too much in my opinion, it's okay to do it. If your dog starts to do any guarding at all, where they pick up the item and runaway, you need to take it a back a step and not go so close to them when they're eating it Instead toss the food from farther away. The whole point is we want them to like you approaching, And in order for that to happen, we don't want to see any initial resource guarding behaviours such as picking it up frantically and moving away from it.
Take it back a step and toss that food from farther away? If you see that particular behaviour develop when you're doing this exercise, Once your puppy or your teenage dog is totally chill with you walking up to them. The way Cedar is in this video. He just looks to me like Now. What are you gon na give me? You can start to diversify the items that you've practiced this with. So it could be their favorite toy Favorite, interactive feeding toy a raw bone, a Bully, Stick, Generally speaking, the higher value to them. The item is the more likely they are to guard it from you When you come up to them to snag it Now. Another thing you'll know and we'll go to this in step. Four. A little further is, I often will progress to the point that I can pick up the Kong I'm giving him an exchange before I do it.
So I'm tossing a food reward right beside the Kong When he eats that food reward, I take the Kong right away. I give it back to him. I don't want him to think I take and we move on. I want him to think I take and it's no big deal That way in the future. When I actually do have to take, he doesn't have a negative association of me doing that. So not only does me approaching him cause him a pepperoni. I also take the Kong and give it right back.
So it's a double whammy: He loses nothing! The more items you diversify this with the more repetition you do, the more that you progress towards the point of being able to touch your dog or take the food away when they're eating it with an exchange offered on the ground. First, the more likely your dog is to be quite passive about you taking items from them in the future.
Okay, now hello, We need to train drop, it So, let's get to tip number four Tip number four is to train drop it with high value items such as a Bully Stick and then give it back to them In this version of drop it. Our intention is to create that idea that when I take, I give back there's nothing to lose So you'll see here, I'm gon na say the word drop it and then present a treat straight to Cedar's nose when he's got the Bully Stick in his mouth. Ideally Sometimes the Bully Stick will be on the ground already because he doesn't really care for it that much right now. But ideally you say the cue then present the treats straight around his nose When your dog's, like Oh, that's better than a Bully.
Stick. That pepperoni is my favorite They're gon na drop the Bully Stick to collect this food Let them have that food and then pick up the Bully Stick and give it back to them right away. No conflict You've got pepperoni, You responded to my drop, it cue and you got the Bully. Stick back, There's literally nothing to lose here.
It'S a win-win scenario for your puppy, The more you do this with high value items, the more you reward them for dropping things they were allowed to have in their mouth in the first place, the more willing they become to drop things at your request. Now a couple of tricks of the trade here: If your puppy has a sock or underwear or shoes in their mouths and they are not allowed those items in the first place, if you start practicing high value drop its where you say the word then present the Treat straight to their nose and they drop the sock. If you give them that treat you rewarded them for picking the sock up.
That'S a problem in your dog training because they're going to learn. Oh, I pick up a sock. I get a high value, treat I'm gon na keep picking up socks Which can actually create more resource, guarding issues or running away when they have socks in their mouths. To create a game of chase, So my recommendation is that you practice drop it in the context of taking what they have away from them and then giving it back to them to prevent resource guarding with items they are allowed.
Practicing drop it with items they are not allowed, is a whole other story and we'll get to it on another video But a quick tip would be if they have a sock and they are guarding it and you can't get it out of their mouth and it's dangerous for them to swallow.
It stick that pepperoni treat exchange at their nose When they release the stock. For you to take these, treats just don't give them those treats You end up with both the sock and the treats in your hand and walk away and shut your laundry room door. So this doesn't become a chronic pattern that your puppy practices, But overall working on drop it with as many items as you can will certainly help. Your puppy have the association that, when you say drop it it's in their best interest to listen because they get pepperoni and they get the Bully. Stick back.
Okay quickly, things to avoid, with both tip number one, two and three and four in today's video: Don't pester your dog when they're eating or chewing things It's annoying. Okay, imagine someone was touching your hair when you were trying to eat annoying.
Secondly, make sure that children are supervised around dogs when they're chewing on high value items or eating food out of a bowl. You should be teaching children parameters.
When they're eating you leave them alone, Don't encourage children to go near your dog or do any of this. If your dog is engaging a food item, it is a great way for a child to get hurt, Don't forget to notice their body language signals They're, telling you warning signs when you're not paying attention. Do not ever punish them for giving you warning signs, We want to say ``. Thank you very much noted Growling means you don't like it I'll take a step back .''. This video is not to help you with your growling dog.
How do I stop my dog from being aggressive towards other dogs?
This is to prevent that from happening in the first place. Don'T be mean to your dog when they resource guard it's a normal behaviour. You'Ve got to get help if you have a resource guarding problem. And if you do these four tips, I promise you you can avoid resource guarding from happening in the first place. As always, my friends, Thank you so much for watching I hope you found today's video helpful, Don't forget if you haven't watched video one. This will make much sense to you. So go back and watch video one on how to prevent your dog from resource guarding.
If you don't already, please subscribe to our YouTube channel, make sure that you've watched similar other videos press notify, so that you find out when our next video comes out, which is every week Also follow us on Instagram like us, on Facebook share with your friends. Leave us some comments about what you want the next video to be about. Download the training tip sheet, I made it for you and enjoy the bloopers, Take care All right. Today'S training tips are the secondary ones to Hey it's Annika here with Sniffdog Welcome to part two ( Gentle music ), Today's ...
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